Luderitz

After another 'quick' dip in the hot pools to soak our 'aching' muscles, we managed to leave Ais Ais by 11.00 am heading north up the west side of the canyon. We detoured for some great views and then hightailed it though arid farmland to the B4 where we stopped for a quick sandwich where the road crossed the Fish River. Just past Aus ( a WWI historical site) and heading west, we had forbidden diamond-land on the south side of the road and Namib-Naklauft Park on the the north. Despite several road signs warning of crossing foxes, oryx and wild horses we drove without incident for a further 90km where the roadsigns warned of wind and sand... and deservedly. I was driving and slowed considerably for the rivers of sand not only crossing the road but sandblasting the landrover! Windows up, when we stopped there was a thin layer of fine sand coating all surfaces in both the front and back.

Tonights campsite is Shark Island in Luderitz, which used to be an island connected to the mainland by a causeway, but they're filling in part of the harbour to increase the landmass. The road we took started as gravel but half way up turned into a paved beauty. This is the most windy place we've stayed in, but has amazing views of the harbour and desert. We're the only ones here.

Ais Ais, Fish River Canyon National Park, Namibia

After nearly an hour driving from Marizanne's we reached the SA border and the only thing that took our time there was the tax claim on a dive watch Duncan bought in Sodwana Bay. We finally crossed the bridge to Namibia, cruised through into the border post there simply stopping for passport formalities and to pay a N180.00 road user tax. The Orange River creates much of the border between South Africa and Namibia and I was shocked at the difference in landscape between the south and north sides of the river. It seemed all of a sudden that we were transported to a dark sandy desert moonscape, with the odd volcanic cone rising up on the horizon. To be fair, that sight only lasted for half an hour of driving or so, then the terrain returned to the familiar rubbley hillscape of the road north of Springbok. The road was gravel and plumes of dust rose from the tyres. Our campsite for the night is at the Ais Ais (scalding) Springs at the southern end of and inside the Fish River Canyon.

Over dinner, after relaxing in the heat of the natural hot springs, Duncan mentioned how twinkly the stars were. I was sceptical when I looked up, but he was right! Apparantly something about the heat rising from the desert makes the stars appear to twinkle. Not as magical as the milky way at Praia Mar e Sol, but impressive still.

South Africa Honors Roll

Tomorrow we cross for Namibia so I thought it time for a roundup.



Best Campsite
- Location - Rustic Camp, Mokala National Park - loved the isolation and all the animals coming to the waterhole throughout the day
- Facilities - all the South African National Park sites, generally well equipped with cooking, washing up and laundry facilities in addition to decent showers with copious hot water and baths (although you need your own plug)!
- Raspberry award - Bloemfontein campsite for being the most expensive with the least facilities.

Best sights/experiences
- Driving up Alfreds Pass (Klein Karoo)
- Watching the dolphins surf at Lambertsbaii (West Coast)
- Cango Caves (Oodtshorn)
- Self Drive safari in Kruger National Park
- Wine Tasting at La Motte vineyard, Franshoek

Best Treat
- Buffelsdrift Lodge, A luxury two room safari tent on the shore of a dam with afternoon game drive, à la carte dinner, breakfast and morning game drive included (sometimes you need a break from camping).

Best Customer Service
Jess at Ezi-Awn, hands down, although I found Afrikaaners to be very helpful in general.

Springbok

We've spent the last three nights in Springbok, enjoying the generous hospitality of Marizanne, the sister of a former colleague at lastminute.com. As we drove further west from Augrabie the treeless plains gave way to rubble-like rock mounds and rocky hills. The town of Springbok is wedged between two of these rocky hills. Once known for its copper mines, Namaqualand is now better known for its spring flowers and although we were at the end of the season, the roadsides were still blanketed with vibrant purple, orange and yellow daisies.

After taking care of weeks of laundry, we took a drive from Marizanne's farm up to Nababeep and the mining museum there, which impressed me by being both free and open on a Sunday. We were invited to a traditional South African braii with the neighbours, Elaine and Ronnie for dinner on Sunday night.

Augrabies Falls National Park

I'm sitting here watching the full moon rise and listening to the roar of the Augrabies Falls. Its lovely and warm compared to the last few nights.

Earlier this afternoon Duncan and I undertook walking the 5km Dassie Trail which took us scrambling across rock formations and river crossings pestered by bazillions of little green flies. Rated easy, it wasnt a physical challenge, but required a certain amount of balance and agility. You certainly wouldnt want to recommend it to your elderly aunt what with the dodgy bridge crossings and sliding across wet rocks. We didnt see many dassies on the trail, but they were all over the campsite, grazing on the sprinkler watered lawn and climbing the hand watered trees remarkably unconcerned by all the humans wandering around. Normally they bask on rocks, keeping a sharp eye out for the enormous birds that prey on them. Improbably the closest relative to the elephant, the rock hyrax looks like a plump, overgrown guinea pig.

The falls are loud, and throw up an impressive mist but they are small in comparison to the path the water has carved in the rock and I wonder what they'd be like if it wasnt dry season. The Orange river has its origins in the highlands of the Drakensburg range and winds its way across Lesotho and South Africa to the west coast of Namibia. I also wonder how the Katze and Mohale damns in Lesotho are affecting its flow and water supply to Namibia.

We had a call from Jess of Ezi-Awn. He wasnt able to find any panels in stock at any of his suppliers in South Africa, but can have one made up. Great. We'll have one please... and can you send it for us to pick up in Windhoek? Once again, impressive.

Upington

The drive along the N14 reminded me a lot of driving in the outback in Australia. For hours the impossibly straight, long road stretched into the enormous blue sky on the horizon. The landscape was red, dry and rocky, covered in low scrub. Occasionally a yellow mongoose would dart across the road, the white tip of its bushy tail bobbing merrily. We stopped for the night in Upington at a camp by the river.

Barberton Nature Reserve

Compared to our drive into the city, the remainder of our time in Johannesburg passed uneventfully. Poor tourists, we didnt even try to see any sights. We mooched about Randburg sorting out the Landy and things for our trip further north, and availed ourselfs of the not-too-slow and relatively inexpensive internet at the hostel. The Landy now has a new battery and shiny dark windows, newly tinted for sunm heat and smash-n-grab protection. We stopped by Ezi-Awn, the manufacturers of the roof tent to enquire about panels for the Landy's awning. Ezi-Awn gave us exceptional customer service. We asked if we could have some of the little hole dooberies that the tent poles go into as a couple had fallen out somewhere in Australia and we were making do with some bolt things and the guy instantly organised one of his staff to replace them on the spot. I also mentioned one of the tarpaulin clips had broken and asked for a replacement clip. Replace all four' Jess said to his staff member, 'these guys have a long way to go.' Less than 10 minutes later it was all sorted, free of charge. They didnt have the panels in stock said they'd ring around the suppliers and try to get some sent up to Upington so we didnt have to wait around. Impressive.

After stopping by the safari store and stocking up on gas cans for the stove and groceries we got a late start out of town so had no chance of reaching our target of Vryberg by nightfall.

Barberton Nature Reserve was a peaceful bird sanctuary on the lake and we were one of only three guests at the camp.