Lesotho

So. Lesotho. It was Duncan's original intention to drive around the top of Lesotho to the Drakensburgs but Andy of Cape Town Backpackers (another Land Rover owner, they're a special breed) recommended a route going straight through the middle of Lesotho. At least, it looks straight(ish)on the map. In reality it involved much climbing of twisting mountain passes up into the sky and then plunging back to low ground on roads that could most kindly be described as challenging. Winter has left a generous dusting of snow on the higher peaks. The views were stunning, especially of the Mohale Dam, which is part of the ambitious Highlands Water Project to supply South Africa over the next century.

Overgrazing has caused dramatic erosion in this mountainous enclave. The air is hazy in the low lands due to the dust. There are no fences marking property or fields, but herd boys manage the livestock taking them from the villages to graze, to water.

We were surprised to find none of our cell phones worked in Lesotho. Mine is so old it didnt work in Cambodia or Thailand either, but the phone network in Lesotho was too modern for all of Duncans (three) phones. Not being able to call when you get lost can make finding accommodation a bit tricky...

We stayed the first night in Maseru, not far from the border crossing then took a rondavel the following night at Melealea Lodge, well known for its pony treks into remote mountain regions and development of a sustainable business model in cooperation with the local villages. Given that even the lowest point in Lesotho is over 1000m we thought it would be too cold to camp. For the evenings entertainment we watched a local choir, then a band with local dancers who played for the tourists at the camp and finally, the last 10 minutes of South Africa trounce Australia in the Tri Nations inside at the bar. No, I know that I cant talk, I know the All Blacks are playing terribly.

From Melealea we took some back roads heading north to the A3. Occasionally passing villages, irrespective of how remote we seemed, from out of seemingly nowhere children would come sprinting across the fields from their villages demanding pompoms(or sweets from the french bon bon).

The most noticeable thing about all the people we passed while driving was the clothing they wore. Generally both a blanket and a beanie. The beanies are due to the cold at altitude, I guess. The blanket is a traditional garment, replacing animal skins some time back in the 1800s. Blankets are worn differently by men and women for more than just warmth, they symbolise status. Women wear them around their waists if they dont have children, and around their middle if they have children. Boys graduate to wearing them in the men's style as part of the becoming a man ritual. By the time we were up in the snow covered mountains the herd boys looked like right thugs dressed in their blankets and balaclavas to keep warm.

We planned to stay the night in Thaba Tseka, though didnt realise the lodge we had in mind was another 55km on from the township, so got in to Mashai just as dark was falling. In all we drove about 320km, but it took nearly 8 hours.

A few kilometers after leaving Mashai the next morning we were flagged down by a young man running up the hill. Nyale was from the township south of Mashai and heading into Tsaba Theka for shopping. We gave him a lift the 12km up to the main road and I marvelled that for him, a round trip to the shop was a good 150km up and down the mountains. Later in the day we were flagged down by a woman and her two daughters and took them nearly 50km to Mon...kong. They were just waiting patiently around a corner at the top of some climb - given the small amount of traffic I wondered how long a trip like that would normally take.

Then it was time to head back to South Africa via the famous Sani Pass over the Drakensburg range where the melting snow turned the good part of the road into mush and the bends were knucklewhitening.

Although it wasnt on the official plan, I'm really happy to have been through Lesotho. In addition to the gorgeous landscape and lovely people, I feel it gave us a taste of the Africa to come and even put the Landy through her paces somewhat. From my perspective she's proven she's up to the difficult roads we've been warned we'll find on our way up the continent.